After chiming in on a facebook post with a friend who apparently bleached her hair three times in a row, fried it and then colored it back to black again in one shot ( why didn’t she read my notes section!) I got inspired to do a post about restoring your hair…
I was reading so many people give bad advice like “get pantene pro-v” “use half the tub of garnier fructis deep conditioner” “leave the henna placenta treament on ALL night when the directions say 20 minutes”
so much get this, get that, do this, do that… and most of it is either bad advice, or decent advice using the wrong products.
But most people don’t know why pantene is bad, because the commercials show such good hair, or why piling on too much conditioner doesn’t make a difference anywhere but your wallet, or why leaving something on longer than directed doesn’t mean it will do double the healing….
Lets start with product choices, if you have been reading any of the notes prior to this one you will know how i feel about sulfates in hair products as well as added silicones and waxes in drug store brand hair products. These products will not heal your over processed hair, in fact they will most likely make it worse. If you over process your hair, you need to heal it from the inside, not put a coating on the outside to make it look healthy, and that is all products like garnier and pantene will do.
Now lets address over application of conditioner…. That is one of the biggest wastes of money. Your hair can only absorb so much, by layering it on you are just throwing your money down the drain. You only need to put enough conditioner on to lubricate your hair and comb it through. To aid your hair in the absorption of a deep conditioner you can put a plastic cap on and warm it up a little, but make sure you let it cool down before you rinse it, and if you are doing a deep conditioner after you do your hair color do NOT apply heat, this will pull out your hair color.
People are always talking about Hask’s henna n’ placenta treatment… but a lot of people have a lot of misunderstandings about this product. First, no, it is not vegetarian. Henna is, but placenta is not. This has always been a tough one for me because the healng properties of placenta are amazing, but being such a strict vegetarian i hate knowing that i am promoting use of an animal product. In my head I justify it as to be a placenta, there needs to be life… it means a new animal was born.. I can only hope it was born into a good situation. Honestly I try not to use it, but sometimes there is just no replacement… To my friends post a few people had suggested it and I did agree, what i did not agree with was having it on the hair for much longer than the directions on the product recommended. Companies don’t put directions on their products to hinder you from getting all the benefits of their products, they put them on the product so that you will use it correctly and not damage your hair more.
You might be wondering, but how could using something good end up being bad?? It is because the placenta treatment is a protein treatment. Protein is amazing for your hair, and can do amazing things. But too much can do the opposite, it can actually make your hair more brittle and just snap. When your hair is already compomised and porous after such intense damage, it is good to keep the protein products in small doses since you hair will absorb everything and anything you put on it. So yes if your hair is severly damaged, use the Henna n’ placenta treatment, but use it as directed and only once then switch to a deep conditioner that is for moisture that contains healing oils.
When looking for a good everyday deep conditioner look for buzz words like moisture, and fruit oils, etc.. and use sparingly products that use the buzz words, restructurizing, rebuilding, strengthing, and proteins. Leave the protein treatments to the pros that know your hair.
So what would I recommend in this situation,
use the Henna’n placenta treatment once for the directed about of time. for everyday use a gentle sulfate free, silicone free, paraban free shampoo and conditioner dedicated to replenishing moisture in your hair. Try Redken’s new Nature’s Rescue line, its amazing. or head down to your local Whole Foods Market and check our their ‘Whole Body’ section, they have great products there that can help, like Giovanni, or Nature’s Gate. and to treat your hair and scalp with Argan Oil.
For my last piece of advice in my conditioning section is Argon oil, often seen packaged under the label Moroccan oil.
these are the ingredients of the Moroccan oil brand
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Butylphenyl Methyl Propional, Argania Spinoza Kernel Oil (Argan Oil), Linseed (Linum Usitatissimum) Extract, Fragrance Supplement, D&C Yellow-11, D&C Red-17, Coumarin, Benzyl Benzoate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone.
lets break this down into words that we can understand.
Cyclopentasiloxane – waterproof silicone
Dimethicone – another silicone
Cyclomethicone – ANOTHER silicone.. only this one is made to stay on the skin and hair and not penetrate
Butylphenyl Methyl Propional – Fragrance
Argania Spinoza Kernel Oil (Argan Oil) – oh wow! isn’t this what we thought we were paying for??
Linseed extract – okay flax seed extract… that has some good benefits…
D&C Yellow-11 – colorant that can sometimes be derived from animals!
Red-17 – another colorant that can be animal derived..
Coumarin – fragrance / appitite surpressant???
Benzyl Benzoate – a solvent, and preservative
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone – synthetic fragrance
Argan oil by itself has amazing benefits, it is rich in vitamines E and F, a great source of fatty acids and antioxidents. It is a great moisturizer, it has anti-microbial properties and and helps balance the pH of the skin and hair. It can help oilly skin and scalps normalize their oil production, and also is good for aging skin and can help regulate the skin’s production of sebum making it great for acneic skin. It can also soothe an itchy dry flaky scalp, or an itchy oily scalp… but this is all when it is just pure argan oil. Once you add synthetic ingredients and silicones you destroy the amazing benefits of this amazing oil.
So where can you get pure Argan oil? Head to your natural foods store, and go to the grocery aisles. One thing to look out for when you buy argan oil this way to make sure that you buy cold pressed, and RAW argan oil. Sometimes when argan oil is used for cooking they lightly roast the seeds.. This not only kills the benefits but makes it not appropriate for cosmetic use.